Historical background

The Westerners had reached the Nanda Devi region long ago. In 1883, a person called W W Garden had reached here en route his expedition to the Nanda Devi but it was largely a failed effort. In the mid 1930s, after Tilman and N E Odell explored and scaled the Nanda Devi and opened the route before the rest of the world, others began to frequent the spot and soon the Nanda Devi wildlife spot turned out into a game sanctuary. In the 1950s organized expeditions started for the Nanda Devi. In 1982, the Indian government declared the region as a national park and later granted it the special status of Biosphere Reserve.

Geography and climate

The Nanda Devi National Park encompasses Nanda Devi sanctuary (a glacial basin surrounded by mountain peaks) and is drained by the Rishi Ganga River, which joins Alkananda River near Joshimath. The national park along with the Valley of Flowers National Park located to the north-west and a further buffer zone of 5,149 square kilometres, make up the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve (2,23,674 hectares in area). The park is located at an elevation between 2,100 and 7,817 metres above the sea level. Being a part of the Garhwal Himalayas, Nanda Devi National Park is surrounded by mountains on all sides except in the west where it is flanked by an inaccessible gorge. Being in the high altitudes, Nanda Devi National Park enjoys a distinct climate. The region remains snow-covered for six months while for the rest of the year, the climate remains dry with the period between June-August receiving heavy rainfall.

Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand is located in the north of India. It is a mountainous state is bordered by Uttar Pradesh in the south, Nepal in the east, Tibet in the north and Himachal Pradesh in the north-west and Haryana in the west. Uttarakhand is a new state that was carved out from Uttar Pradesh in 2000. State capital is Dehradun.

Geography of Uttarakhand

93 per cent of Uttarakhand’s geography is mountainous while 65 per cent is covered with forest areas. In the north, the state has borders with the Greater Himalayas. The Himalayan ecosysytem makes the region ideal for a great flora and fauna diversity. Two of India’s important rivers, the Ganga and Yamuna originate from the glaciers of Uttarakhand. The vegetation type in the state changes with the elevation. The highest altitudes are dominated by glaciers with little or no green while tropical forests are mainly found in the lower rungs of the landscape. Uttarakhand is home to a great many national parks.

Nanda Devi Sanctuary can be divided into two parts, namely the Inner and the Outer. The former occupies roughly the eastern two-third of the total area besides containing Nanda Devi peak and the two major glaciers flanking it, the Uttari Rishi Glacier and the Dakkihni Rishi Glacier. These are fed by the smaller Uttari Nanda Devi and Dakkhni Nanda Devi Glaciers respectively. The Outer Sanctuary, on the other hand, occupies the western third of the total sanctuary. It is separated from the Inner Sanctuary by high ridges, through which flows the Rishi Ganga. It is split in two by the Rishi Ganga.

Nanda Devi flora

Birch, rhododendron, juniper, fir are some of the main vegetation types that are found in this park. The forest cover of the park is mainly concentrated in the Rishi Ganga Gorge area. Conditions are much drier in the inner sanctuary while vegetation is almost zero near Nanda Devi Glacier. From Ramani, only Alpine vegetation is visible. Over 300 flora species are found in the park of which 17 are considered to be rare.

Fauna

Himalayan Tahr, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear, common langur, Himalayan musk deer, bharal and brown bear are the common animals found in this park. Besides, birds like warblers, rose finches, ruby throats are also spotted.

Time to visit

April to October is the best time to visit the park.

Other attractions around Nanda Devi National Park

• Joshimath, which lies at a distance of around 23 km from the Nanda Devi National Park, is an important stop in any expedition trip to the Garhwal Himalayas.
• Badrinath
• Valley of Flowers

• Hemkund Sahib
• Nanda Devi peak. There are also peaks like Hanuman, Dunagiri, Rishi Pahar, Mangraon, Bamchu, Sakram, Deo Damla, Latu Dhura, Nanda Ghunti, Nanda Kot, Hardeol and others

• Valley of Parks National Park
• Rishi Ganga Gorge
• Peaks like

How to reach

By air
Dehradun is the nearest airport at around 295 km away. Regular flights connect Dehradun with New Delhi.

By rail
The nearest rail station is Rishikesh, located at a distance of 276 km. Rishikesh is accessible from Joshimath. Dehradun, Haridwar, and Kathgodam are other major railway stations to enter Uttarakhand.

By road
Bus service is available from New Delhi to major points in Uttarakhand from where Joshimath can be reached. Joshimath is 253 km by road from Rishikesh. One has to trek along metalled roads from Joshimath to reach the park. Treks can be undertaken only during summer. Metalled roads are there till Joshimath from where one has to trek to reach this place. Lata village, located at around 23 km from Joshimath, is the entry point to the park.

Other attractions and activities in Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand is a paradise for tourism activities. Some of the top attractions of this state are:

• Exemplary sand and wood works at Chandpur Fort, pandukeshwar, Devi Madin, Devalgarh Temple and others
• Tourist attractions at Dehradun, Mussoorie, Haridwar, Uttarkashi, Pithoragarh, Rishikesh, Nainital, Almora, gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath, Ranikhet and others
• Fairs like Hatkalika Fair, Tapkeshwar Fair, Kunjapuri Fair, Surkhanda Devi Mela, Lakhawar Village Fair, Mata Murti Ka Mela, Uttarayani Mela, Kasar Devi fair, Nanda Devi mela and others.
• National parks like Govind National Park, Corbett national Park, Gangotri National Park.
• Activities like trekking, river-rafting, mountaineering, skiing, para-gliding and others.

Accommodation

Hotels are available in Joshimath:

• GMVN Tourist Bungalow
• Dronagiri Hotel
• Hotel Snow Crest
• Hotel Mount View

Being designated as the only living fort in the world, today, approximately a quarter of the total population of Jaisalmer resides within the fort. In olden days, the entire population of the city lived in the fort, which however, with the increase in the population, people had no option but to shift outwards in hunt for shelter at the base of the Trikuta Hill in the 17th century.

In the ancient days, the city was the major trade centre due to trade with Persia, Arabia, Egypt, and Africa. Being among the last princely defender and the crossroad of productive trade, this isolated city and fort behold the spirit of its rulers and artistic value in form of the palaces and havelis. The popular famous Indian movie director Satyajit Ray and the writer of a detective novel, made a film named Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress) out of that novel that was related to this fort.

History

Been erected in the center of the Thar Desert (factual meaning being the abode of the dead), it ascends like an optical illusion from the sand with its giant turrets peaking towards the sky. After the Chittorgarh of Rajasthan, the Jaisalmer Fort is counted among the oldest fort. According to the legend, Lord Krishna, who was the leader of the Yadav Clan, had forecasted to Arjuna that a far-off descendent of the Yadav Clan would erect his kingdom on the Trikuta Hill. His this foresight was fulfilled by Rawal Jaisal who was a descendent of the Yadav Clan and a Bhatti Rajput. He was seeking a new capital, as his present one, Lodurva, was quite susceptible to attacks. In his this desire to abandon Lodurva due to the advice of a local solitary, Eesaal, he chose the Trikuta Hills constructed the fort and the surrounding city.

This fort has witnessed many battles and tales of valor. In the 13th century, Alauddin Khilji invaded and seized the fort and thereafter ruled it for 9 years. The defeated king’s queen committed Jauhar during the seize of the fort. Jauhar (sati) is an act of voluntarily putting oneself in a funeral pyre of the husband. In 1541 A.D., the second battle took place when the Mughal emperor Humayun invaded the fort.

Architecture

Constructed on the triangular peaked hill of Trikuta, the fort emerges as a ray of sunlight of 250 feet tall from the desert. Armored by a commanding sandstone wall of 30 feet, the yellow sandstone fort spectacularly beholds 99 bastions symbolizing the strong defensive mechanism. 92 bastions of these were erected somewhere in between 1633 and 1647 and were utilized as the gun platforms. There are four attractive gateways to the fort namely, Ganesh Pol (Gate of Lord Ganesh), Suraj Pol (Gate of Sun), Bhoot Pol (Gate of Dwarfs), and Hawa Pol (Gate of Wind). The fort also beholds many eye-catching havelies and Jain temples of 12th to 15th centuries. Over the time since its construction, the ramparts have been extended well. Even until today, the wells within the boundary of the citadel are regular sources of water to the fort.

The fort comprises of three layers of walls, out of which the outer or the lower layer is carved from solid stone blocks and emphasizes the ruins of hill. The second wall forming the middle one twists around the fort, whereas the third wall, the innermost one, forms the place from where the Rajput warriors threw boiling oil, hot water, and giant round rocks on the attackers when they became captivated between the second and third walls.

Tourists’ Attractions

Apart form the living fort of the world, the other unique feature is an unusual device hoisted atop its ramparts. The use of this device was to forecast the weather, as there were hardly any Meteorological departments. To predict the weather, a flag was placed in its middle every year in April. Depending on its blowing direction, the annual weather was foretold. If the direction was north, it would signify famine and if west, it meant good monsoons. It would be difficult to believe but this forecast was as accurate as of the Met departments today.

The common attractions of the fort are:

• Raj Mahal (Royal palace)

• Jain temples
• Laxminath temple
• 4 massive gateways
• The huge Merchant Havelis (large houses) of complex sandstone carvings, ornate doors, rooms, balconies, and archways
• The palaces of Maharwals ahead of the Chauhata Square
• Maharwals’ marble throne atop their palace reached via marble steps
• The five-storied Tazia (metal) Tower near the throne and is known for its complex architecture and Bengali style roofs erected by Muslim craftsmen

Jain Temples

Open from morning 7 until noon, these seven temples are cultural heritage well connected by pathways and corridors. The first temple is of Shree Chandraprabhuji, the 8th Tirthankara (Jain Prophet) carved in 1509 out of detailed sculptures of sandstone. Carved pillars that provide a view of sequential toranas reinforce its hallway. Incredible to know that even though mortar is not used, prickly stonework is appreciated in form of iron staples with radial beams bending down all over.

The next temple is of Shree Parshvanathswami, the 22nd Tirthankara whose entry is possible through a huge and delightfully carved torana that ends in the Jain Tirthankara’s image at the top. There is also an amazing sculpting of gracefully dancing woman who is balancing balls on lifted arm.

Pillars hold the capacious mandapa; whereas the container of the dome holds the attention-grabbing dancing figures and musicians.

Days of Attraction

The best time is during the Desert Festival in January – February when the city echoes with the sounds of harmonious tunes, folk dances, and thrilling competitions – especially the turban-tracing contest. Further, Mr. Desert contest and camel races and craft bazaars make the city livelier even at night.

The alternative time to visit this place is from October to March.

Reaching Jaisalmer

By air, Jodhpur is the nearest airport at 285 km away. From here, cabs or train journey is available.

By rail, Jaisalmer is connected to major Indian cities via broad and meter gauges.

By road, nearby cities from where bus service is available are Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jalore, Ahmedabad, and Jaipur.